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[2LV8ETR]

Step 23: Turbo Lines

Water Lines

Depending on the turbo you are using, you may need to have some braided lines made up for the next step. I will be using a stock location turbo so with a little massaging, the stock lines will work with my application.

Start by removing the bracket from the water return line. Use a pair of pliers to open it up and remove the plastic bushing.

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Connect the water return line to the block using the banjo bolt, some people also call these eyebolts. Make sure that you use a copper washer on each side of every banjo bolt you use.

You will need to bend and shape the line in order to be able to connect it to the block. Use a little common sense to avoid kinking the line. Basically, bend the line as you need to in various sections along the line, not in the same place. After a bit of shaping you will have everything lined up enough to connect it.

Torque the bolt down to 2.7kg-m (19.52lb-ft, 26.46Nm).

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Connect the return line to the turbo and torque down to 2.7kg-m (19.52lb-ft, 26.46Nm).

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Connect the feed line to the two points behind the head before connecting to the turbo, believe me, it’s easier this way. You will need to undo one of the head to block bolts that has already been nipped up in a previous section. Torque the head to block bolt down to 1kg-m (7.23lb-ft, 9.8Nm) again.

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Using the same principals as described above, massage the line to meet up with the connection point between the turbo and the block. I haven’t supplied a picture because it’s a bit difficult to get the camera behind the turbo, but its location is 180 degrees behind the return line point of connection. Torque the bolt down to 2.7kg-m (19.52lb-ft, 26.46Nm).

Oil Lines

Connect the oil feed line to the turbo. The way I made the line fit was by stretching out the loop in the line, and then I massaged it to shape. Torque the bolt down to 2.7kg-m (19.52lb-ft, 26.46Nm).

While you're at it, connect the other side of the line to the block. Torque the bolt down to 2.7kg-m (1.95lb-ft, 2.65Nm).

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Connect the oil return point to the block. I used some PTFE tape to assist with sealing, but you can use a little gasket sealant to do the job. I believe these are actually tapered, but I’m not in the mood to risk an oil leak for the sake of a little effort.

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The stock return hose won’t fit now because of the extra height of the block, so I’ll be sourcing a longer piece of hose that already has a bend in it to prevent kinking.

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[2LV8ETR]

Step 24: Harmonic Balancer

I know I’m jumping all over the place here, but I’ve returned to the front of the engine to do the harmonic balancer. To tell you the truth, I forgot about it in my excitement to get the turbo on.

First, place the key in the crank and then slip on the timing pulley plate. You may need to lightly tap the key into place.

Note the orientation of the timing pulley plate. Make sure the curved face is towards the block.

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Now, before you go and place the balancer on, make sure all of the rust or any other crap is out of the hole. Remember what we did with the timing pulley a few steps ago? Well make sure you do the same here. These things can be absolute bitches to get off sometimes. Sort it here to prevent any hassles later on.

Anyway, clean it up, apply a light film of oil or some CRC, and slip that puppy on. Do I really have to tell you that you need to line up the notch on the balancer with the key? I did? You must be as high as a giraffe’s arsehole, lay off the cones.

Drop the washer over the balancer bolt, drop some oil on the tip of the bolt and torque that bastard down to 15kg-m (108.45lb-ft, 147Nm).

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Now, you’re more than likely (actually, I’d bet my left nut on it) going to spin the crank when you go to tighten up the harmonic bolt. An easy way to combat this issue is to drop in two flywheel bolts at the back of the crank, then wedge an engineer’s screwdriver in between the bolts and the engine stand. Savvy?

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[2LV8ETR]

Step 25: Water Lines - Exhaust Side

We now need to tap in the connectors that we removed when the block was stripped down. For fuck’s sake, I hope that you’ve tossed the old RB30 ones away and kept the 20DET ones, otherwise you’ll be having some issues when you go to do this next step.

We’ll start with the one next to the thermostat. The first thing I did was apply some of our magical gasket sealant. Yeah, I know, it’s overkill but why fucking not?

Now you need to line it up so that it is perpendicular with the flat of the top of the block, then drop the tip a few degrees. As long as you are close, then everything will line up alright. Remember, these are rubber hoses going onto this, not a stiffy on Viagra.

Next tap the connector in until it is flush with the surface of the block.

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Again with the other water connector I used PTFE tape. Again, you can use some gasket sealant or not, but if it fails, stiff shit to you for going boong spec.

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[2LV8ETR]

Step 26: Miscellaneous Items

Dipstick Holder

Apply some gasket sealant to the tip of the holder then tap it into place. If you need to, use a spanner on each side of the lower ring and tap it down with a hammer.

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Oil Filter

While you’re here, screw a new oil filter on.

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Thermostat Housing

Position the thermostat in its little home with the jiggle valve facing upwards. Usually there will be a stamp showing “top” on the rim of the thermostat.

Make sure that the housing is clean and free from crap, then apply some more gasket sealant and drop it on. Torque it down to 1.9kg-m (13.74lb-ft, 18.63Nm).

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[2LV8ETR]

Step 27: Knock Sensors

Before I was able to install these properly, I had to tap out the block. The thread is already there, but with all the years of buildup and rust and other shit, I found it difficult to get them in without it binding up.

Go ahead and tap them out. Still haven’t bought yourself a tap and die set yet? You cheap prick. No wonder you can’t get laid.

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Now that the threads are clear, screw the knock sensors in and attach the harness.

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[2LV8ETR]

Step 28: Inlet Manifold

Sizing The Ports

The runners on the 20DET manifold are a little thinner than those on the 25DE. When I purchased the head it came without the inlet manifold so I have to do a little porting to facilitate flow to the head.

The first image shows the difference in black marker between the 20DET and 25DE head along with a rough grind, the second image shows the finished port. Just a little bit of final cleaning to remove the burrs and then a blow down with the air nozzle to remove all of the crap.

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Manifold

As usual, I like to use sealant for every gasket I install, so you'll notice that I have hit the block side with sealant and placed the gasket into postition.

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Next, the inlet manifold side gets a coating of sealant.

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Now place the manifold onto the block and torque the bolts and nuts down to 2.0kg-m (14.46lbft, 19.6 Nm).

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Dipstick Holder

Now you'll need to massage the dipstick holder a little to get the bracket to line up with the mounting position on the inlet manifold.

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Miscellaneous Wiring & Hoses

Position the knock sensor wiring harness through the runners.

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Connect up the water hoses under the manifold. Take note of where the brackets are located.

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At the rear of the hose bundle is a bracket that needs to connect to the inlet manifold, well guess what - It won't hook up and no amount of massaging will line it up. My solution, make a bracket .

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Lastly, connect all of the other hoses up.

This one needed a little more length so cut one to size.

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[2LV8ETR]

Step 29: Inlet Collector

Injector Rail

Drop the injectors and rail in, then bolt it down. What more can I say?

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CSV

Drop the cold start valve into position and bolt it down, and also the connect the wiring harness plug.

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Collector

You should be used to this next step by now...... Sealant, gasket, sealant, bolt down.

Torque the collector down to 2.0kg-m (14.46lbft, 19.6 Nm).

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CSV 2

Connect the hose on the other side of the CSV.

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[2LV8ETR]

Step 30: Miscellaneous Items

Alternator

Ummmmmmmmmm, yeah..... Bolt it on. Leave the adjuster loose.

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Yeah, I know. It's an R31 alternator. Mine came with it when I bought the car. It works.

Power Steering Bracket

Okey doke, a bit of cutting here. In the very beginning I showed the there was a lug on the bracket that would need to be cut off in order to fit the PS pump. Well break out the grinder, make sure you have a cutting disc on it it, and get ready to wake your neighbours.

You can see here where the lug interferes with the correct mounting.

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What you need to do is to cut the lug off flush with the other two mounting points on the bracket. You can accomplish this a couple of ways.

1: Use a completely flat small sheet of metal or something with an appropriate surface area and lay it on the two correct mounting points. Then by lining the sheet up with the lug, you will be able to mark it with a scribe or pencil to show where the cut needs to be made.

2: Eyeball it. I lined up the flat surface of one of the correct points with the lug and just marked it with a pencil.

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Cut the lug off but make sure you keep it as flat as possible with the other two mounting points.

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Install it!

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Water Pump Pulley

I run thermo fans so there's no need for me to install the fan at this point. If you run a fan, drop it on now, if you run thermos just hook the pulley up.

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Engine Mounts

Bolt them on.

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[2LV8ETR]

Step 31: Valve Covers

Painting????

I thought I'd spruce mine up a little. I just degreased them, washed them in some detergent and water, and then sprayed them with some cans I had left over.

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Installing

I placed the new rubber grommets on the screws and nipped it all up. Looking spiffy!

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There is a small PCV hose between the inlet manifold and a rocker cover, hook it up now.

Guess what................ Now it's time to install the engine!

[2LV8ETR]

This engine is now running.

Stay tuned for more info soon.

[Ten Four]

woooooooooooooooooooooo

[Char]

[2LV8ETR]

^^^^^^^^^^^ James' car????

[Ten Four]

All setup for luring you hun

[2LV8ETR]

[landscribble]

Nice job man

[2LV8ETR]

Okey doke. I went for the first test drive today and there is a massive difference over the response of the RB20DET - No secret there.

Next on the list is to run her in on stock boost with the RB20DET injectors for 1500km, then the following will be ordered in the meantime:

ECU:
Nistune Board - $450 (approximate)

Turbo:
Kinugawa Turbocharger $800 (approximate)
Still considering type at the moment.

Exhaust Manifold:
Monsta high mount $300

Wastegate:
40mm $250 (approximate)

V-Band dump pipe:
Custom - $200-300

Injectors:
Already have GT-R units. I will wait and see if I need bigger ones - This I am expecting so. I want to see what's left in reserve after the tune.

Remember guys, this is a budget build so there will be a bare minumum spent. Also, I'm only chasing about 400hp so I won't be needing top shelf shit to achieve this. The money will go to the 26/30 build.

I have also read a lot of good things about the Kinugawa turbos so I will be giving it a go. One guy is making 517rwhp with a Kinugawa T67-25G on an RB25DET, so there must be something to it.

[2LV8ETR]

[Ten Four]

Budget build? Fair enough haha.
But when I searched ebay for "Kinugawa" first result was this: http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1000wt_1270


Mmm salty

[landscribble]

Yes, they specialize in turbo's and bath salts, didnt you know? haha