14 replies to this topic

[94GTRR32]

Hey guys,

Out of interest I have been looking into different turbos for the GTR. I dont want to go over the top, but just push out a bit more power safely without the fear of blowing the stockers, and possibly hurting my engine.

There is the Garrett range -5s, -7s, -9s etc, maybe some second hand R34 turbos or a set of N1's.

I have also seen the N1 turbo rebuild kits on ebay for about 300, and was wondering whether this would be an option. Maybe pick up some blown turbos and rebuild them myself... The listings claim that the wheels have been balanced etc, but I dont know whether it is crap stuff or whether it would be worth taking this path at all.
(a mate has recently rebuilt a turbo for his 60 series cruiser, but still needed to bring it into a turbo specialist to get it balanced etc)

Obviously I would have to get some supporting mods to get the best out of them.

At this stage it is just research as it could be a while before I finally up the boost for a little more fun.

What are your thoughts??

Cheers

[Ten Four]

Stock internal + response = -9s I think...

-5s are best

[Nak]

please refer to attached link and i think you should make your 32 go like this


http://www.westcoast...-mines-r34-gtr/

[94GTRR32]

Yeah that would be nice!

But that would require shit loads of work and really deep pockets.

Was thinking -7s or -9s if I go new turbos...

[Char]

dude depends wat u want it for. do u want response but less hp or more hp with bit of lag etc
how much power do u have, how much do u want, do u have any other mods ie: ecu, coilpacks, boost controller, fuel pump, injectors (should be fine with stock gtr yellow tops), fmic, what is current boost set to etc etc
if u want to run around 300-330rwhp u can do that with stock turbos, u can also buy different actuators
save some money

[2LV8ETR]

A budget would help.

[94GTRR32]

The car is basically stock. only performance mods would be intake and exhaust. I recently changed the front pipes, hi flo metal cat and 3.5in stainless cat back. The boost restrictor has been removed, its currently reading 0.8 bar.(11.6psi)
I am not sure if fuel pump is stock, I still need to check it out. Does the stock one prime quite loudly when igition is switched on? mine does.

I am more after response, not big hp. (I dont want to go down the path of forged internals etc) In the near future i will be looking at getting it nistuned. I am still debating over ebc or boost tee. ebc obviously the better option, but more expensive. I was just going to get it tuned to 14psi at this stage as the turbos are stock, but i am still paraniod about blowing one and damaging the engine, as I have heard this can happen. Thats why I am researching different turbo's.

In saying that, if i do get different turbos, i wouldn't be keeping it at 14psi around 350 to 400hp i think would be as far as i go...which then I presume would probably require other supporting mods...

Budget.. well at this stage havent really got one set as it is purely research atm. obviously new garretts would set me back around 3 grand I'm guessing, whereas secondhand or rebuilt N1s or R34's would be a cheaper option.

Cheers,

ps. bear with me guys I'm fairly new to the turbo scene

[Char]

step one, go to a dyno - any place will do pay them $50-$60 for a power run (not a tune) see what power it has
autoworx and tenagah are the cheapest for power runs last i checked

[2LV8ETR]

As soon as you replace the ceramic turbines with steel ones, you'll be losing response as the inertia from the heavier wheel will make a difference. But in saying that, stock ceramics will cope with 14psi, but it's safer to cap them at 13psi.

If you're lucky enough to score some good N1's or LeMans turbos second hand, then this will be a cheaper option for you, but you will need to be in the right place at the right time, otherwise you'll be an old cunt like me before you get lucky.

Failing that, bend over and grab your ankles and take a deep breath because the aftermarket option will rape you hard if you think that you're going to get away with paying less than $5k, installed and tuned.

Another thing I noticed in your post is that you removed the boost restrictor. There are 2. The other one is located at the back, and under the plenum on a very short line. This also happens to be the spot that you should tap into for your boost controller.
A lot of people unhook the PCM valve and tap into it for the controller, but this is not the case. Tap into the line under the plenum and block off the PCM valve.

[94GTRR32]

Cheers Allen,
I will prob steer clear from the ebay stuff anyway, as after further reading I will need to get them balanced as well, so then I might as well find some good SH ones or ones that have been rebuilt already.

Yeah, I know the first restrictor has been removed, dunno about the second one... is it hard to get too without pulling anything off??

I will get some other things sorted first, like new coilpacks, boost controller etc before I change the turbos. Just means I can only run limited boost until then

Looks like its nistune and 13psi for a while:)
Thanks.

[94GTRR32]

Oh, I hope to do a power run when the car is in for its next service

[Russellll]

mmmmmmm, Gav's GT-R.. Mmmmm

[V8EATER]

GT SS, GT2530's, 3037s.. Hmmm i can only wish on the 3037s

[94GTRR32]

Thread revival....
After much research and discussions with my mechanic, I decided on a set of SH R34 turbos from a very low km GTR... It will get me close to the power I am chasing without sacrificing response...and more importantly not blowing my budget
Hopefully have them installed before track day in Nov so I dont have to hide behind a cloud of turbo smoke

[Ten Four]

Nice, hope to see it out at the trackday being smashed hard!